Master Arowana care with this definitive guide. Learn essential tips on achieving the non-negotiable 300+ gallon tank size, understanding species differences, and providing the perfect carnivorous diet to ensure your magnificent Arowana lifespan of 20+ years.
Introduction: The Aquarium’s Living Dragon
There is a unique type of awe that washes over you when you watch an Arowana move. With its large, overlapping scales and deliberate, powerful glide, it genuinely embodies the mythical “dragon fish” nickname. This isn’t just a pet fish; it’s a regal centerpiece, a predatory freshwater marvel that commands respect and attention.
Arowanas are immense, highly predatory freshwater fish that require massive aquariums, exceptional water quality, and a dedicated carnivorous diet to thrive. Let’s be clear upfront: this fish is not for the faint of heart or the small tank owner. My journey with Arowanas taught me early on that compromise is not an option. You must be ready to commit to providing the space and pristine conditions these giants demand. In return, you get to witness a creature of unmatched elegance and power daily.
Understanding Arowana Species, Size & Lifespan
The term “Arowana” covers several species, all belonging to the “bony-tongue” fish group. Knowing which species you have is crucial, as their Arowana size and growth rates vary.
Species and Size
Common Arowana varieties include the Silver, Black, Jardini, Leichardti (Australian), and the highly-prized Asian Arowana.
- Size: Most commonly kept species, like the Silver Arowana, typically reach 2–3 feet (60–90 cm) in length in captivity. However, always be aware that some can hit 4 feet in exceptional circumstances or in the wild.
- The Asian Arowana: These stunning varieties (like the Super Red or Golden) are often slightly smaller but require highly specialized habitats and are subject to strict regulations due to their endangered status.
Quick answer: Most captive Arowanas reach 2 to 3 feet in length, meaning you must plan for a fish the size of a small child.
A Lifespan of Decades
The commitment to an Arowana is a long one. The Arowana lifespan is typically 10 to 20 years, and it’s not uncommon for them to live well past 20 years with perfect husbandry. When you bring an Arowana home, you are bringing a decades-long friend into your life. My first Arowana lived long enough to watch me move homes three times! This longevity underscores the necessity of planning the right habitat now.
Tank Size and Setup: The Non-Negotiable Space
The single most critical aspect of Arowana care is the aquarium size. Get this wrong, and you guarantee a stressed, stunted, and unhealthy fish.
Tank Volume and Shape
Forget the common ‘inches per gallon’ rule. For Arowanas, it’s about sheer volume, length, and width. A juvenile Arowana might start in a 150-gallon tank, but a fully-grown adult requires a bare minimum of 300 gallons, with 400–500 gallons or more being truly ideal for a healthy life.
- Length and Width: The tank must be long and wide enough to allow the Arowana to turn comfortably without brushing the sides. The length should be at least three times the length of the adult fish, giving them ample room to cruise. A long, wide footprint is always superior to a tall, narrow one.
Quick answer: A minimum of a 300-gallon tank is required for an adult Arowana because they grow up to 3 feet long and need vast space to turn and glide comfortably.
Lid and Security: The Jumping Hazard
Arowanas are famous for being surface hunters in the wild, leaping out of the water to snatch prey. This behavior doesn’t stop in your living room. A solid, leak-free, heavy lid is non-negotiable for Arowana care, as these powerful fish are notorious jumpers capable of clearing six feet if startled. I’ve heard countless sad stories of Arowanas committing tank suicide—don’t let yours be one of them. Use weights or clamps to ensure the lid is absolutely secure.
Decor and Aquascaping
Keep it simple. The Arowana tank layout should prioritize open swimming space, with minimal decor restricted to low-profile, smooth driftwood or large, smooth river stones. Avoid sharp objects or elaborate structures that could injure them during a frantic jump or turn. The fish itself is the centerpiece; the environment should merely support it.
Water Conditions and Maintenance: Pristine Perfection
Arowanas are extremely sensitive to fluctuations, especially poor nitrogen levels. If you want a long Arowana lifespan, focus on perfect water quality.
Temperature and Chemistry
You must maintain warm, stable conditions for your Arowana, ideally $75^{\circ}\text{F}–82^{\circ}\text{F}$ ($24^{\circ}\text{C}–28^{\circ}\text{C}$), with a neutral pH range of 6.5–7.5. Use a high-quality thermometer and ensure your heater is both powerful and reliable for such a large volume of water. Soft to moderate water hardness is generally fine.
Filtration and Water Changes
Dealing with a 3-foot predator means dealing with a massive bioload. Arowanas require robust filtration and circulation, necessitating multiple powerful external canister filters and expecting to perform large weekly water changes (20–50%) to keep nitrates below 20 ppm. Investing in a quality canister filter (like the large Fluval or Eheim professional series, which you can find on Amazon) is essential. Proper circulation, often achieved with a powerhead, is also critical to ensure the water is highly oxygenated, mimicking their river origins.
Feeding and Diet: The Apex Carnivore
Arowanas are not grazers; they are built to hunt. The Arowana diet must be varied and strictly carnivorous, moving from live foods as juveniles to high-quality floating pellets and meaty frozen foods as adults.
The Meal Plan
- Juvenile Diet: Focus on live, protein-rich foods like quarantined feeder shrimp, crickets, and earthworms. This encourages their natural predatory instincts.
- Adult Diet: Transition them to high-quality, large floating pellets designed for large carnivorous fish (like those from Hikari or Omega One, commonly found on Amazon). Supplement heavily with meaty frozen or thawed foods such as krill, prawns, mussels, and large earthworms.
- Feeding Frequency: Feed juveniles 2–3 times daily, reducing to 1–2 times daily as they reach maturity. Only feed what the fish can consume in a few minutes, as uneaten food quickly fouls the massive tank.
Quick answer: Arowanas are true carnivores that require large, meaty foods like krill and high-quality floating pellets, avoiding an all-live feeder fish diet which can transmit disease.
Arowana Tank Mates and Behavior: Solitary by Design
The discussion of Arowana tank mates is fraught with risk. These fish are territorial, aggressive, and will eat anything that fits in their enormous mouths.
Adult Arowanas are naturally solitary and highly territorial, and they are best kept alone to prevent severe aggression and the inevitable loss of tank mates.
Attempting Companions
If you have a truly massive tank (500+ gallons) and insist on a community, companions must be:
- Too Large to Eat: This is the golden rule.
- Peaceful: Non-aggressive to avoid initiating fights.
- Durable: Capable of handling the Arowana’s size and speed.
Possible, but Risky, Companions: Large, bottom-dwelling species like Bichirs, large Plecos (like the Sailfin or Gibby, not small L-numbers), Pacus, or specific large Catfish (like a Redtail Catfish, if you plan for its colossal size). Introductions must be done when the Arowana is young, and observation must be constant.
Behavioral Health and Common Issues
Keeping an Arowana healthy goes beyond water chemistry—it involves managing their unique behaviors.
- Droopy Eye (or PTE): A common ailment where the eye looks permanently downward. This often happens because the fish spends its time looking down at the tank floor, usually for food. Mitigate droopy eye by ensuring you feed exclusively floating foods and use reflective feeding spots or bright surface decor to encourage upward vision.
- Jumping Hazards: Never approach the tank quickly or tap the glass. Avoid placing the tank in high-traffic areas or under harsh, fluctuating light. Their jump is a panic response.
- Disease: Arowanas are susceptible to common diseases like Ich and fungal infections, particularly if water quality slips. Strict quarantine protocols for all new additions and rigorous maintenance are your only defense.
Summary/Quick Reference Card: Arowana Care
| Category | Key Requirement |
| Focus Animal | Arowana (Regal, Predatory Surface Hunter) |
| Arowana Size | 2–3+ Feet (Up to 4 feet) |
| Arowana Lifespan | 10–20+ Years (A decades-long commitment) |
| Minimum Tank Size | 300 Gallons (400+ recommended) |
| Tank Shape | Long and Wide (Length is key) |
| Security | Heavy, Clamped Lid (Non-negotiable jumping prevention) |
| Filtration | Extreme (Multiple canister filters, high flow) |
| Water Temp/pH | $75^{\circ}\text{F}–82^{\circ}\text{F}$ / pH 6.5–7.5 |
| Diet Focus | Strictly Carnivorous (Floating Pellets, Krill, Prawns) |
| Tank Mates | Best Kept Solitary (Rarely compatible, high risk) |
Conclusion: The Reward of Stewardship
Caring for an Arowana is a genuine test of a hobbyist’s passion, discipline, and resources. They require massive space, specialized food, and a commitment to impeccable maintenance that few other fish demand.
If you are ready to take on the responsibility—if you are willing to provide the hundreds of gallons, the pristine water, and the secure environment—the reward is watching a magnificent, ancient creature patrol its domain with power and grace. The Arowana doesn’t just live in your tank; it elevates it.